Bow Barracks keeps Christmas traditions alive in Kolkata’s Anglo-Indian hub
As families return from abroad and old rituals continue, how does this quiet neighbourhood hold on to its festive soul?
Tucked away in central Kolkata, the century-old Anglo-Indian neighbourhood of Bow Barracks comes alive every December as its residents prepare to celebrate Christmas. Despite a shrinking population and changing times, the community gathers to keep its traditions intact.
Hidden behind busy streets, Bow Barracks feels quieter and more intimate than the rest of the city. Built during World War I as military housing, it gradually became home to generations of Anglo-Indian families who shaped its unique culture and rhythm of life.
Over the decades, Bow Barracks witnessed Kolkata’s transition from colonial to post-colonial India. While many residents moved away in search of better opportunities, the neighbourhood retained a strong sense of identity rooted in shared history and faith.
A changing community
Today, around 132 families live in Bow Barracks, nearly 80 per cent of whom identify as Anglo-Indian. There was a time when almost every household belonged to the community, but migration—especially among younger generations—has reduced their numbers to fewer than 100 families.
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As the city expanded and lifestyles changed, the lanes of Bow Barracks grew quieter. Yet, residents say the spirit of the place has never faded, particularly during Christmas, which remains the most important time of the year.
Long-time resident Dion Alexander reflects on this bond with the neighbourhood. “I've lived here for the past 45 years, and we celebrate Christmas at no other place than Bow Barracks,” he says, adding that many who left Kolkata return during the festive season. “When Christmas comes, everyone comes back home. This is the place where home belongs to all of us with love and respect and prosperity.”
Food and faith
Preparations for Christmas begin weeks in advance. Homes are cleaned, balconies decorated with handmade stars, and lights carefully strung up to illuminate the old buildings.
Food plays a central role in the celebrations. Alexander describes the festive spread prepared at home: “We make homemade cake… a little homemade wine, the ginger wine, grape wine, and we prepare food like peas pulao, mutton curry, vindaloo, chicken vindaloo, pork vindaloo, with beetroot salad.”
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Plum cakes are baked and shared among neighbours, reinforcing bonds that have lasted generations. The preparations may be simple, but they are filled with meaning and memory.
A place to gather
Bow Barracks also draws visitors during Christmas. Retired residents and old friends often return just to spend time together. Michael Chen, who frequently visits the area, describes its appeal. “Bow Barracks is a very warm and nice place where a lot of people come,” he says. “During this festival time we have a lot of people come and visit this place… especially during festival time.”
As carols echo through narrow corridors, candles are lit and stories exchanged. Older residents pass on memories to younger generations, ensuring that the traditions do not fade with time.
Coming home
For many Anglo-Indian families, Christmas is the one occasion that brings everyone back together. Nicholas Riley Yeo notes that migration was often driven by the search for better futures.
“A lot of people have been moving out… for the better future of the children,” he says. “But during Christmas definitely they would all like to be with family so they all return during Christmas.”
He adds that economic challenges after the COVID-19 pandemic made life harder for many, but celebrating Christmas together remains non-negotiable. “It’s truly a festival of lights,” he says.
Spirit endures
Despite its declining population, Bow Barracks continues to stand as a symbol of continuity and community in a rapidly changing city. Christmas here is no longer about numbers, but about preserving a shared heritage.
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As years pass and families move away, the festive spirit survives—carried forward by those who still call Bow Barracks home and by those who return each December to reconnect with their roots.
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