Shaikh Rehana Abdul Hamid: Keeper of recipes of IM Kadri’s Justa Diwans Bungalow

You have no qualms about picking up a piece, eating it and licking the sticky goodness off your fingers. The sweet dish changes every day and this is followed by stuffed parathas, mildly spiced potatoes to accompany it, bowls of curd and pickled green chillies. This is just a sample of what Shaikh Rehana Abdul Hamid, the third-generation cook of the Kadri family and the keeper of the Diwan’s recipes, has to offer guests.

Diwans Bungalow was built by I M Kadri’s great-grandfather, Sayad Bavamiyan Kadri, the Diwan of Radhanpur, after his retirement. Rehana’s grandfather, Siddique Bhai, was from Dasada, a Gujarati village, and he first worked in the home of Diwan’s mother before moving to Diwans Bungalow. His son, Allahrakha Bhai, continued to work for the family, cleaning and cooking for them. Rehana, now in her mid-50s, recalls watching her father and grandfather in the kitchen and learning the recipes she now safeguards just by observing them.

“I come from the Shaikh community (a Gujarati Muslim community) and our food is characterised by the use of whole garam masalas. Since I learnt these dishes, watching my father and grandfather, I can’t tell you exact proportions, as I still cook by andaz (by estimation),” says Rehana, who is now teaching her assistants the dishes she knows, the same way she learnt it.

A festive repertoire

Rehana says that the Diwan’s recipes are simply a collection of dishes that form part of a festive repertoire. They are typical of Gujarati Muslim communities such as the Shaikhs. There is a preference for meat, and families are particular about cuts and proportions of fat to meat. Fish is not a common ingredient, and if used, the focus is always on it being as fresh as possible. There is also a sizable vegetarian selection with paneer as the central ingredient, dals, Kathiyawadi-style baingan bharta (brinjal mash), and the Gujarati classic of tamatar sev (spicy mashed tomatoes topped with crispy sev).

I M Kadri says that when he was growing up, his father, Mustafa Hassan Kadri, was an Indian National Congress leader and several stalwarts of the freedom movement would come to meet him. “When Khan Abdul Ghaffar Khan (also known as the Frontier Gandhi) used to come to Ahmedabad to visit Mahatma Gandhi, he would stay with us and enjoy the cooking of the household,” says Kadri, who has designed Taj Palace in Mumbai, Taj Coromandel in Chennai, and Fort Aguada Hotel in Goa, among other illustrious properties.

When asked about his favourite food, Kadri says that he loves everything that is cooked in these kitchens and can’t name a favourite. But Rehana tells us otherwise. While he is partial to prawns, it is the Khatta Gosht that is his favourite.

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Rehana explains that Khatta Gosht, a mutton dish, is made with equal proportions of meat, curd and onions mixed together. To this are added cloves, green cardamom, black pepper, bay leaf and cumin seeds. A generous amount of refined oil (or mustard oil as was used in earlier days, she says) is heated and the mix is cooked on high flame for a while. This flame is then reduced and the dish is cooked till it is done. How long, Rehana says, depends on the quality of the meat.

The result is a dish that has absorbed all the flavours of the spices, the oil acting as the catalyst. The onions add a touch of sweetness and the black pepper some heat. Eat it with rotis or hot rice — it works well either way.

Come hungry to savour more

Across multiple meals, we feasted on both vegetarian and meat-based dishes. The Diwani Paneer is a creamy, white paneer gravy, thickened with an onion, poppy seed, and nuts, and cooked in ghee, with a heavy hand on the elaichi (green cardamom). The Diwani chicken is a spicy, semi-gravy chicken dish, heavy on oil, a bhuna masala (onions, tomatoes, garlic and chilli slow-cooked till well incorporated) and whole spices.

The vegetarian galouti kebab, served on thick roti discs, has an incredible texture and depth of flavour, and could easily be mistaken for its mutton counterpart, which is equally moist and disintegrates into a flavour bomb on the tongue. The Kheema Bhaji (spiced mutton mince) is best had with hot pav (bread).

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Interestingly, the Mutton Biryani here is made with large chunks of potatoes and horse gram. The Chicken Hussaini Kebab is pounded and spiced meat that is egg-batter coated, and deep-fried on wooden skewers. Desserts, like the Khaja, are heavy, and creamy. Rehana coaxes you to eat another bite of the Doodhi Halwa (bottle gourd halwa).

There is the rich Shahi Tukda (a milk and bread dessert), and Mohanthal made from gram flour. The Phirni (made with broken rice) is luscious and creamy, with just the right level of sweetness for you to indulge in more than one helping.

These meals can be savoured at Dalan, the hotel’s restaurant, or at its dining room which is right next to the reception. Step inside and you will have a place set at the large 8-seater table and its cushion-backed wooden carved chairs. Dark wooden cabinets filled with family heirlooms, artefacts, curios and more surround you.

The windows have Gujarati ajrak-patterned curtains and a corner table has an intricately carved metal jug and bowl that was used by the family to wash their hands. Aromas will waft constantly from the side door that opens into the kitchen area. You will hear the sounds of a pressure cooker, the steady clickety-clack of a knife on a chopping board and the muffled voices of the staff. And before you know it, Rehana will begin to send out an array of dishes — so come hungry.

Note: The Diwan’s recipes is an exclusive section on the menu for guests staying at the hotel. For non-residents, prior reservations for only dinner will have to be made.