Forest to fork: How mahua is stirring up the perfect menus

At the Samode Safari Lodge in Bandhavgarh, the evening air hummed with quiet anticipation as the forest gently stirred to life with nocturnal sounds. Anshuman Singh, the resort's expert naturalist, led an evening nature trail after a jungle safari. He began sharing fascinating details about the mahua tree—a lifeline for the local tribes and a vital part of the ecosystem. “You know,” he said, pausing beneath the shadow of a towering tree, “the pollination of the mahua flower only happens at night, and it’s all thanks to the bats—fruit bats, specifically.” Anshuman nodded enthusiastically, “There are different kinds of bats here. We have pipistrelles—those are the smaller, evening bats. But the larger ones, those are the fruit bats, or as we sometimes call them, flying foxes.”

The term "flying foxes" might conjure an image of bats transforming into fox-like creatures, but as Anshuman, explained, the name is derived from their appearance. "Their faces are furrier, almost fox-like. The fulvus fruit bat, for instance, has a distinctive rusty colour on its face and collar. Each species varies—not just in size, but in appearance as well. It’s amazing how diverse they are," he noted. These bats, with their vivid colours and nocturnal dance, are more than just creatures of the night—they are silent architects of the jungle’s renewal.

Singh asserts, “Not all fruit bats are black. There's a fascinating one called the painted bat. Its colour is a striking orange, almost red. Quite the sight!” His description painted the hue so distinctly that it seemed to leap to life. Singh further accentuated their activities, “They’re highly active during the early evenings or at night. Every bat has its own schedule for flying around. The fruit bats, in particular, come out to feast on nectar at night. It’s a crucial time for them because as they sip from the flowers, they inadvertently pollinate them. The nectar sticks to their faces, and when they move from one flower to another, they spread the pollen, aiding in seed dispersal.”

“So that’s how pollination happens,” Singh explains. “Once the flower is pollinated, it falls to the ground. That’s when it becomes a coveted prize, particularly for the local tribal people. They gather the fallen flowers to make alcohol—a traditional process that’s quite elaborate.” He continues, “In the dark of night, the tribal people crouch down and collect as many flowers as they can. But they aren’t alone. Bears, drawn by the same irresistible scent, come to feed on the fallen flowers. And that’s when encounters between humans and bears happen.”

Singh then discussed the abundance of mahua trees in Bandhavgarh and the surrounding villages. “There are many trees around here,” Singh acknowledged, “but even in the buffer zones, the competition is fierce. The fastest runner in a family will race with a cloth, tying it to a tree to mark it as their family’s spot. It’s a tradition that ensures each family has their own collection area.” He paused for a moment, then added, “Indian bears are particularly known to become more aggressive during the fruiting season of trees like the mahua. March is the peak time for these encounters, likely due to the heat and scarcity of food during those months.”

Traditionally, mahua has been a vital part of the culture of indigenous Indian communities, especially in central India. The Mahua tree, particularly its flowers, has been used for centuries to produce a local, mildly alcoholic drink known as mahua liquor, which is deeply ingrained in the indigenous culture. While tribals primarily consume mahua as an alcohol, its flowers have also been used in various dishes such as sweet puddings and breads. Today, with the growing focus on indigenous ingredients and sustainable sourcing, mahua is being reinvented in modern gastronomy. Chefs are integrating it into gourmet dishes, elevating it into sauces, syrups, and even desserts, creating a new narrative for this traditional ingredient in contemporary cuisine. “The fruit and its seeds are less spoken about but are used for extracting a thick oil akin to butter, which is commonly used in cooking in indigenous communities. Hence the English common name, the Indian butter tree,” says Aly Rashid, director of Jehan Numa Wilderness.

 Aly shares, “At Jehan Numa Wilderness we use mahua extensively to provide guests with a local flavour. Mahua is known to be the ‘tree of life’ for indigenous communities of Central India and a visit to the Central Indian wilderness is not complete without the inclusion of mahua in the experience of culture or cuisine especially during the mahua flowering season in late March and April. Our chefs utilise juicy nectar-filled mahua flowers to prepare the most delicious preserves, they also whip out an interesting mahua peanut butter which is an absolute delight with a slice of toast at breakfast. And certainly, you don’t want to miss the mahua kheer for dessert if you visit our lodges in April. Our F&B team offers a signature cocktail known as the 'Mahua Martini' which is one of the most refreshing beverages after a long day out on safari.”

Highlighting the health benefits and nutritional properties of Mahua, Rashid highlights, “Mahua has been used by indigenous society since time immemorial. These flowers are a rich source of proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, ͏and minerals like calcium, potassium, and iron. The flowers also have medicinal qualities like being an antioxidant, having properties used in anti-diabetic traditional medicine, having anti-inflammatory properties and being good for the digestive system.” He adds, “In modern food and beverage innovations, it is commonly used for making puris, halwa, kheer, noodles and jam. Extracts from the fruit and seed are used in soaps, oils and of course, cooking.”

Some of the most renowned chefs in India, specialising in modern cuisine are innovating with mahua, using responsibly sourced traditional ingredients to craft elevated culinary experiences. MasterChef and restaurateur Shipra Khanna, reveals an intriguing story about her introduction to Mahua flowers. “I first came across Mahua flowers at a friend’s house in Orissa, where the tribals use them in fascinating ways. As a curious chef, I was inspired to experiment with this indigenous ingredient. Mahua has a sweet, earthy flavour, and I focus on its natural sweetness and floral aroma, pairing it with ingredients that either enhance or complement its unique taste.”

Khanna explains the techniques she uses to incorporate Mahua into her dishes: “I often infuse Mahua flowers into cream or milk to create a floral base for desserts like custards, ice creams, and panna cottas, which brings out their delicate sweetness and aroma. I also use syrups and reductions made from Mahua to drizzle over desserts, mix into cocktails, or add richness to sauces. In powdered or dried form, Mahua can be blended into spice rubs or crumb toppings to give savoury dishes a subtle sweet undertone.”

When asked if she has ever experimented with combining Mahua with other indigenous ingredients, and how she creates harmony between these elements in a modern dish, Chef Khanna responds, "I’ve experimented with mahua flowers alongside ingredients like amaranth and jackfruit, creating a sweet and sour curry with kokum that beautifully contrasts with the sweet, floral notes of mahua. I’ve also combined them in baked goods, such as cookies or energy bars, and incorporated these ingredients into modern Indian desserts as part of a fruit-based tasting menu."

Her innovative approach to working with this indigenous ingredient showcases her passion for blending tradition with modern culinary techniques. However, working with Mahua presents its own set of challenges. Khanna cites issues like maintaining freshness, managing storage, handling logistics from rural areas to urban centres, as well as ensuring preservation and consistency in flavour across different batches.

Mahua, with its rich cultural heritage and distinctive sweet, earthy flavour, is steadily finding its place in modern cuisine. Once a traditional ingredient used primarily in rural and tribal communities, it is now being embraced by contemporary chefs who appreciate its versatility and unique profile. From infusions in desserts to innovative pairings in savoury dishes and cocktails, mahua’s natural sweetness and floral aroma offer endless culinary possibilities. As more chefs experiment with this indigenous ingredient, mahua is not only preserving its roots but also evolving into a symbol of India's rich gastronomic diversity, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity.