‘Exactly why India attracts so few tourists’: Dalrymple on Mughal site’s demolition

The hurried demolition of Agra’s 17th-century Mubarak Manzil has prompted Scottish historian and Indologist William Dalrymple to lash out at the authorities and say that this “appalling negligence of India’s heritage” is the main reason why the country fails to attract tourists from abroad.

Mubarak Manzil is a Mughal-era building with a significant place in history. Built during Aurangzeb’s reign (1658–1707), the structure is also known as Aurangzeb’s Haveli, serving as a residence for his father, Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, Aurangzeb himself, and his brother Shuja. Later, under British rule, it underwent some modifications and served as a customs house and salt office, coming to be known as Tara Niwas by 1902.

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Sudden demolition

It was only in September that the Uttar Pradesh archaeological department decided to declare the building as a protected monument, The Times of India reported. It issued a notification seeking objections, if any, to the decision within a month, but none were raised. Two weeks ago, officials visited the site to start the measures.

However, right after that, demolition of the building began on a war footing, leaving it 70 per cent destroyed. Local residents told TOI that over 100 tractor loads of debris were removed from the site after the demolition. They alleged that a builder had carried out the demolition in connivance with the local police and administrative officials.

“One of the most important historic buildings in Agra destroyed with the full connivance of authorities. This is exactly why India attracts so few tourists,” Dalrymple tweeted.

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Loss of history

Not only Mubarak Manzil, Agra has seen at least three other historical sites demolished or naturally destroyed in the past four months, TOI reported. These included the Shahi Hammam (1620), Zohra Bagh, and a 500-year-old Ibrahim Lodhi-era mosque.

“It’s almost as if India is going out of its way to destroy its appeal as a tourist destination. Neglect your main heritage centres, allow developers to raze all its heritage properties, and then be surprised when this great country has less tourists than Dubai or Singapore...,” a miffed Dalrymple posted.

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India’s dismal figures

The city of Dubai (17.5 million in 2023) alone attracts more foreign tourists than entire India (11 million in 2019). Compare that to France’s 90 million in 2019 or Spain’s 85 million in 2023, according to the World Economic Forum Travel & Tourism Development Index, and it’s easy to understand what Dalrymple is talking about. The Centre’s target is to make Indian tourism a $1-trillion ecosystem with 100 million international tourist arrivals by 2047.

The demolition of Mubarak Manzil has sparked widespread protests from locals, historians, and political leaders, including former UP chief minister Akhilesh Yadav and AIMIM chief Asaduddin Owaisi.