National Handloom Day | Weaving tech into handloom: Interview with Neytt founder Sivan Santhosh
Founder of Kerala-based Neytt by Extraweave talks about his design house's journey, using sisal and key challenges facing India’s handloom industry
From gracing the Met Gala in 2023 to White House state visits, Neytt by Extraweave, the high fashion rug brand based in Cherthala, Kerala, has garnered global acclaim for its distinctive carpets.
On National Handloom Day, founder Sivan Santhosh sits down with The Federal to discuss his design house's journey, his passion for sisal products, and the challenges facing India’s handloom industry. Edited excerpts:
What does National Handloom Day mean to you and your brand? How does this day influence the handloom industry?
Handloom Day is particularly special to us as it celebrates our commitment to handmade products and natural fibres. This day not only raises awareness about the handloom industry but also underscores the importance of empowering artisans. We’re proud to honour and promote the craftsmanship and sustainability of handwoven textiles.
What's the inspiration behind your brand Neytt by Extraweave? How did the idea to focus on handloom products come about?
We are a family business with over 100 years of experience in the carpeting industry, which was founded by my great-grandfather in 1917.
When I joined the business, I sought to innovate while still using the same natural fibres. I explored various ways to differentiate our products by incorporating exotic raw materials, aiming to create not only functional but also beautiful spaces.
Additionally, we emphasise storytelling through our rugs and celebrate the artisans who bring these products to life with their skilled craftsmanship.
Crafted from sustainable jute, this is a sample of Neytt's Christmas rugs
How does Neytt by Extraweave integrate traditional handloom techniques with modern design elements?
The design of our products greatly depends on the creativity of the designer. Our in-house team blends traditional and modern perspectives, reflecting our 107 years of experience.
We have seasoned professionals who bring a traditional approach, as well as talented designers fresh out of design schools who infuse contemporary ideas. This fusion of classic and modern influences allows us to create designs that honour our heritage while embracing innovation.
In what ways does Neytt incorporate sustainability into its business practices and product designs?
Sustainability is a core part of our identity. While no brand can claim to be 100 per cent sustainable, we strive to make significant progress.
We recycle and reuse the water involved in our production process and have transitioned our entire plant to run on solar power. Additionally, we’ve banned plastics in our factory outlets and actively educate others on sustainable practices.
Our goal is to improve every day, minimising our environmental impact and ensuring that our commitment to sustainability permeates every level of our supply chain.
Neyyt's boat race-inspired collection handcrafted using premium sisal material, reminiscent of Kerala's landscapes.
What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in promoting handloom products in today’s market?
People do appreciate handloom products, but we face several challenges in the industry. One major issue is the time required for manufacturing; the intricate process of weaving is often not fully understood by customers.
Additionally, we face challenges with the availability of raw materials and skilled labour. The newer generation is often drawn to different careers, leading us to take steps to make working in handlooms more appealing.
We’re working to create an aspirational environment by improving conditions, such as providing insurance for artisans’ families, which we believe will make a meaningful difference.
What's next for Neytt by Extraweave? Are there any upcoming collections or projects you’re excited about?
Last year, our designs were seen at COP28 and we also won two international design awards, signalling that many aspects of our work are moving in the right direction.
Neytt by Extraweave's carpet on display at the Met Gala 2023
We are integrating new techniques and incorporating more natural fibres into our designs. We were the first to use sisal in our products and continue to expand its use.
Additionally, we’re introducing technology into rug manufacturing by automating certain processes with the help of AI, which we believe will add a modern, innovative touch to our work.
How do you envision the role of handloom products evolving in the global fashion and textiles industry?
Handloom products are always appreciated, and I believe the future of the industry lies in integrating technology to enhance both design and functionality. By showcasing work through global exhibitions and collaborating with artists from around the world, we could elevate handloom’s appeal on a global scale.