Toddy, Mahua and more: An excursion through India's native alcoholic beverages
Foreign liquors are popular in India, but their traditional country cousins have a sizable fan base, too.
The Kerala government’s new liquor policy aiming to brand toddy as the state’s authentic and natural alcoholic beverage has put the spotlight on traditional liquor consumed widely in different parts of the country. From the southern shores to the northern plains, the eastern mountains to the western coastlines, India boasts an extensive array of traditional alcoholic beverages.
Be it toddy, fenni, arrack, mahua, rice brews, judima, tharra, ghanti, chhang or thunba, each drink carries its own regional signature, contributing to the diverse cultural landscape of the country.
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Here is a list of the traditional drinks produced across various states, and how they are prepared. Their prices range from around Rs 40 for 300 ml to Rs 55 for 600 ml.
Toddy: Southern flavour
Toddy, also known as Kallu in southern India, is a traditional alcoholic beverage predominantly consumed in Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Tamil Nadu.
The production process for toddy begins with extracting sap from various palm trees such as coconut palms, date palms or palmyra. The sap-tappers cut the tree’s flower bud at dawn and place a clay or steel pot beneath it to collect the sap, which starts fermenting naturally due to the yeasts in the air.
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By sunset, the sap has fermented into a sweet, mildly alcoholic beverage with around 4-6 per cent alcohol content. Toddy can be consumed fresh but it’s also used as a base for vinegar and jaggery. A significant reason for toddy’s regional popularity is that it’s a key ingredient in many traditional south Indian recipes.
Fenni: Cashew or coconut
Fenni (or feni), a Geographical Indication (GI) product, is an exclusive product of Goa, the smallest state on India’s west coast. Made from cashew apples or the sap of coconut palms, there are two main types of fenni: cashew fenni and coconut fenni.
For cashew fenni, the process starts with stomping cashew apples to extract the juice, which is fermented for a few days. The fermented juice undergoes a double distillation process using traditional pot stills.
The first distillate, urrack, is low in alcohol content, while the second, fenni, has a higher alcohol concentration of up to 45 per cent. Coconut fenni is made from the sap of coconut palm trees, similar to toddy. The sap is collected and allowed to ferment before double distillation.
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Fenni is known for its strong, pungent aroma and potent taste. It plays a significant role in Goa’s local culture and economy, served at celebrations and festive occasions.
Arrack: Unique flavour profile
Arrack, primarily consumed in South India and Sri Lanka, is a distilled alcoholic beverage. Its source varies by region and includes fermented sap from coconut or palmyra palms, sugarcane, grain or fruit.
In India, the production process generally involves the extraction and fermentation of palm sap, similar to toddy. After fermentation, the sap undergoes a distillation process, creating a stronger spirit with an alcohol content of about 40-50 per cent. Arrack has a unique flavour profile that differs based on its source and preparation method.
Mahua: A flower’s fragrance
Mahua, an Indian tropical tree, is renowned for its sweet, fragrant flowers, used to make a traditional liquor consumed in many parts of central and northern India.
The process of making mahua liquor starts with the collection of mahua flowers. The flowers are usually collected during summer when the tree sheds them. The freshly collected flowers are spread out and dried in the sun for a few days until they become crisp. They are then soaked in water for two to three days.
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During this period, the natural yeast in the flowers initiates the fermentation process, turning the sugar in the flowers into alcohol. Post-fermentation, the liquor is distilled.
The traditional method of distillation uses a clay pot for the distillation process. The distilled liquor is collected and stored in earthen pots or glass bottles. The mahua spirit is often consumed as it is but can also be used as a base for cocktails. It is known for its distinctive sweet taste and fragrance.
Rice brews: Built with yeast
Rice brews, commonly known as rice beer or rice wine, are traditional alcoholic beverages produced through the fermentation of rice. Various ethnic communities in North-East India and elsewhere prepare different varieties of rice brews.
The process begins with the cooking of rice. Glutinous or sticky rice is commonly used but other types can also be used. A ‘starter culture’ is needed for fermentation. This is usually a dough-like substance made from a mixture of rice powder and special herbs or moulds that serve as yeast.
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These cakes are called different names in regions like Marcha in Sikkim or Hamei in Manipur. The cooked rice is mixed with the crumbled starter culture and kept in a warm place for fermentation.
The fermentation period varies, typically between a few days to a week. After fermentation, the rice mixture is stored to allow the flavours to develop. This can take anywhere from a week to several months, depending on the desired flavour and alcohol content. Once matured, the mixture is filtered.
The liquid collected is the rice brew, which can be consumed immediately or stored for further ageing. Some rice brews also undergo a distillation process to increase the alcohol content. This is more common in rice spirits like Apong or Zutho.
Judima: Cultural identity
Judima is a traditional rice wine consumed by the Dimasa tribe in Assam. It is a crucial part of their social and religious ceremonies.
To prepare it, rice is cooked and mixed with a traditional yeast called Humao. This mixture is placed in earthen pots and fermented for about a week. The resulting brew is then strained to obtain a clear liquid, which can be consumed immediately or aged to increase the potency.
Tharra: Potent spirit
Tharra is a traditional distilled country liquor primarily consumed in North India, particularly in Punjab, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar.
The production of tharra involves fermenting a mash of sugarcane, fruits or cereal grains. After fermentation, which lasts about a week, the mash is still distilled using a simple pot. The resulting distillate is tharra, a potent spirit with an alcohol content of up to 50 per cent.
Ghanti: Fresh or aged
Ghanti is a traditional spirit made from various fruits and grains, and it is commonly consumed in northern India.
The process of making it starts with the fermentation of fruit or grain mash with the help of natural yeast. After fermentation, the liquid is distilled to produce ghanti. The spirit is usually consumed fresh but can also be aged for a richer flavour profile.
Chaang: Bamboo to cook and serve
Chaang is a type of beer traditionally consumed in the Sikkim, Ladakh and Darjeeling and parts of Nepal and Bhutan. It’s made from fermented millet, barley, or rice and is traditionally served in a bamboo vessel using a bamboo pipe.
To prepare chaang, grains are cooked and mixed with a local fermenting agent called phab. The mixture is fermented for a few days and added to a bamboo vessel with warm water. The resultant liquid is sipped through a bamboo pipe.
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Thungba: For Himalayan winters
Thungba or Tongba is a traditional millet-based alcoholic beverage consumed in northeastern India, especially Sikkim.
Its preparation involves fermenting millet using a special type of yeast known as Marcha. After fermentation, the millet is dried and stored for use. When ready to consume, hot water is poured over the fermented millet in a wooden or bamboo container, and the beverage is drunk through a bamboo straw. The hot water can be replenished over several hours, making Thungba a perfect drink for the cold Himalayan winters.
The myriad of traditional alcoholic beverages of India reflects the country’s agricultural richness and cultural diversity. Each drink carries a distinct identity, shaped by local customs, resources and centuries-old wisdom.
While they serve social and celebratory purposes, these beverages also embody a significant part of India’s heritage that requires preservation and appreciation.
