Yearend travel: Get away to Coorg to escape into the quiet charms of nature

From romantic dinners by the serene lakeside, encounters with majestic elephants, and off-roading in the estates all alone, Coorg has a lot to offer. Driving through its coffee and pepper plantations, with some soulful music playing, each twist in the roads revealed a breathtaking view; while the green aromatic coffee plantations and red ripe berries, all ready for harvest, created a visual feast, the orchestral sounds of the cascading waterfalls generated a melody of its own.

An escape into the nature

Since I was confused with many stay options available around the region, I planned to stay in. A friend had recommended a one-night stay at Evolve Back — a luxury resort spread over 300 acres — to fully experience Coorg’s charm. I drove to the property and booked a heritage bungalow, where the staff welcomed me with Kumkum on my forehead, and Candy Coffee. Childhood memories rushed back as I got on to a buggy and reached the beautiful bungalow that blends the features of traditional Kodava homes with modern luxury.

Surrounded by luxuriant greens, the bungalow, adorned with woodwork and red oxide flooring, exuded nostalgia for a bygone era. The modern amenities included a jacuzzi and a garden-nestled swimming pool, offering a refreshing escape into nature. I wondered why we do not have such homes in the city.

Waking up to the concert of chirping birds in Coorg was surreal. And a welcome break from honks of vehicles and newspapers and milkmen screaming on top of their voices one is used to waking up to. The mellifluous tunes of the Malabar Whistling Thrush, the calls of the White-cheeked Barbet, and songs of the Oriental Magpie Robin lent the dawn with a distinctive sound palette. As day turned into night, the rhythmic hush of the Nilgiri Wood Pigeon and soft cooing of the Indian Scops Owl became a lullaby, guiding me into peaceful slumber.

My plan was to stay just for a night in Coorg and then go to Mysore, but then the dinner by the Lake at Peppercorn, a speciality restaurant, all by myself made me change my mind to stay back for two more nights. At Peppercorn, Chef Prince’s menu traces the spice journey from India to Europe, with each dish combining elements of both cultures. Relishing the Hot Smoked Lamb and Feta, Joojeh-e-Koobideh (my favourite), Karachiwali Tandoori Pomfret, and Scottadito Lamb Sizzler in front of the campfire was quite an experience. As I munched on the warm and crunchy shells of Fried Ice-Cream with Honey, I mapped out the rest of the trip in my mind.

The avenues for adventure: Camping, off-roading et al

Considering my love for elephants, I had always wanted to touch and feel the skin of the beast. This time, I randomly decided to go to Dubare as it was close to Evolve Back. A drive and boat row after, I reached the Dubare camp. My first experience at Dubare Elephant Camp, guided by the dedicated caretaker Mr Murthy, was magical. His expertise made the visit exceptionally smooth; he told me about the camp’s history, the resident/ex-rogue elephants, and the conservation efforts with characteristic candour. Seeing the big mammals walk so close was a dream come true for me. The highlight was me bathing and feeding the elephants, and creating enduring memories with Kaveri, Bheeshma, Partha, and their companions.

Offroading in Coorg is common but venturing through the vast 2,500-acre private Elkhill Group estates, established in 1870, was an extraordinary all-terrain odyssey. The ride was a surprise. I had zero expectations, but came down with my heart full. The tour, conducted by the charming naturalist Subbaiah Kalimada, was exhilarating and revealed stunning panoramic views I had never seen before. Subbaiah shared nuggets related to the rich culture of Coorg dating back to Elkhill’s establishment. His insights into coffee cultivation and anecdotes about the bygone era made me understand the region’s heritage well. The breathtaking vistas at 3,657 feet above, with some good food and Coconut water, made the Elkhill 4x4 tour an adventure to remember.

Relaxation: Unwind and reinvigorate

I love Ayurvedic massages and that happened only when I went to Mangalore. Until I found Vaidyashala. The fragrance of oil and the massage techniques always made me opt for one. This time, I wanted to try something really different and I found what I was looking for. Navarakizhi, a type of Ayurvedic treatment, was not a typical spa session, but a journey into tranquility. The rhythmic application of oil with warm herbal pouches filled with a special type of rice by skilled therapists was both soothing and invigorating. The therapeutic warmth induced profound relaxation. It felt as if Coorg’s natural beauty had been harnessed within Vaidyashala’s treatment room overlooking paddy fields.

One evening, as I was strolling through the coffee plantations at sunset, I saw a board that read: “Coracle ride, 3PM to 5PM”. It was 5.10 and I ran to the bank of the Kaveri River to request the boatman to take me on a Coracle ride. He obliged. As the sun’s warm glow painted the expanse in amber hues, I glided on the gentle ripples of the river in a circular, weightless coracle, which brought me closer to the waterway’s diverse temperament. The Coracle rider had deep knowledge about the birds. When we sighted Kingfishers, he exclaimed: “Vijay Mallya’s bird”.

I have always been a huge fan of Coorg culture, their attire, food, dance and language. I have also attended many weddings only to dance and eat the food they serve. This time, I did not have to wait for another Kodava friend to get married. I spent my last evening at BeeHive, a museum that offers a glimpse into the Kodava traditions through a cultural show. Kodava men and women, dressed in traditional costumes, danced to drum beats and songs, with each number echoing centuries-old stories. At the end of my trip, as I bid farewell to Coorg, I knew that it would not be long when I would come here again. And again and again.