Why Queen’s Head in Taiwan’s Yehliu Geopark, a tourist hotspot, is slowly eroding

For she is the Queen’s Head — a striking rock formation in Taiwan’s popular Yehliu Geopark, sitting regally among mushroom-like formations or hoodoo rocks with equally fascinating names and local folk legends: Fairy Sandals, Candle Rock, Leopard, Bird’s Beak, and more. And yet, on a recent visit, I noticed a handful of visitors pass her by as if she were just another honeycomb-textured rock, content with a passing glance. No selfies, no kisses.

‘Disneyland of rocks’

Yehliu Geopark, located in the Wanli district, stretches out like a slender 1,700-metre headland, jutting from northern Taiwan’s coast into the South China Sea. Shaped over 4,000 years by wind and sea erosion, these geological wonders are part of Yehliu’s ever-changing landscape — formations that seem more like works of artistry and patience.

Back during the age of colonisation in the 16th century, Spanish navigators charting these waters were struck by the headland’s sharp silhouette and treacherous reefs. They called it Punto Diablos — Devil’s Cape — because of the undercurrents that caused frequent shipwrecks. Over time, locals who were unfamiliar with Spanish gradually transitioned from “Diablos” into “ia-los,” a phonetic shift that eventually evolved into “ia-liu,” the Taiwanese pronunciation of what is now called Yehliu. The young locals also fondly call Yehliu the ‘Disneyland of rocks’ — and it is easy to see why.

Today, a walk through the geopark is sure to leave one awestruck — where wind, rain, and time have come together like master craftsmen, chiselling rocks and cliffs into art. Nature didn’t rush things here. Instead, it sculpted slowly, bringing patterns and textures to life in ways no human hand could replicate. Take Tofu Rock, for instance — formed when two intersecting sets of nearly perpendicular joints sliced through the rock layers, carving the mass into square-shaped blocks. Over time, erosion and weathering widened these joints, making the formations look like neatly cut cubes of tofu. Hence the name.

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Equally iconic are the Mushroom Rocks, shaped like their namesake. “There are approximately 180 mushroom rocks in this geopark,” said Richard. “Among them, the Queen’s Head and her successor, the Cute Princess, are the most famous.”

Then there are the Candle Rocks, unique to this coastal abrasion landscape. Richard pointed out how their harder top layer — the “wick” — protects the softer rock beneath. Erosion and salt weathering eventually eat away the surrounding rock, leaving behind what looks like candlesticks nestled in circular grooves. Pretty cool, right? As if nature had its own way of celebrating — with candles, no less.

Queen’s Head eroding away

Even the potholes, sea caves, and well-preserved fossils add their magic to the landscape. One of the most striking features of the geopark is the yellow-brown weathering patterns created by years of repeated wetting and drying. “When water carrying iron [ions] seeps between rock layers, it leaves behind these colourful, patterned trails,” Richard explained.

As we wandered on, he pointed out sea urchin fossils and delicate trace fossils — many still beautifully intact. It was quite thrilling to see these ancient imprints preserved in stone, untouched by time. Yehliu has also preserved coastal sentry posts recalling its past as a military-restricted zone — long before it became the geological wonderland it is today.

It may have once earned the forbidding nickname “Devil’s Cape,” but today it holds a treasure of marine riches and a surprisingly diverse ecosystem, shaped over centuries by wind, waves, and the relentless northeast monsoon. The cape’s vegetation draws an array of bird species, making it one of northern Taiwan’s most cherished birdwatching spots.

But then, this natural wonder is a paradox: on one hand, its surreal formations are nature’s own masterpieces. On the other, the very forces that shaped them — wind, water, and time — are now steadily eroding them away. Add to that human apathy, and the pace quickens.

According to the Taipei Times, the delicate neck of Queen’s Head is also wearing away at a rate of 1 to 2 cm per year. In 2005, 3D scans measured its circumference at 138.27 cm; by 2015, it had shrunk to 127.88 cm, and by 2017, to 125.01 cm. The latest measurement in September 2023 recorded just 118.3 cm, raising concerns that the rock’s reign may be coming to an end sooner than expected.

A biodiverse region

Taiwan’s unique geographic and climatic conditions makes it also highly susceptible to soil erosion and extreme weather events. The island’s steep topography, combined with heavy rainfall —particularly during typhoon seasons — contributes to significant erosion rates. Studies have documented erosion rates ranging from 3 to 7 millimeters per year, attributed to these natural factors.

Since 2008, Yehliu has used 3D laser scanning and weather data to monitor subtle changes in the Queen’s Head, guiding conservation with science. Building on that, research teams began exploring nano-based and mineral-penetration techniques in 2016 to reinforce weathered surfaces and slow erosion.

To preserve the Queen’s Head and other iconic formations, the park has created replicas and even experimented with protective coatings to slow down erosion. And to safeguard the fragile landscape, the park is divided into three zones, each with its own access protocols. “Beyond the Cape Rest Area in Zone 3, visitors must be accompanied by an authorised park guide”, informed Richard.

Strict rules are in place: no climbing onto rocks, no cycling or playing in the water, and absolutely no digging or inscribing words on the formations. The park’s vigilance ensures that Yehliu’s delicate geology is treated with the respect it deserves. But then with its dramatic landscapes and ecological richness, Yehliu Geopark is not just a geological marvel — it has also breathed new economic life into the biodiverse region.

Keeper of Yehliu’s tale

Yehliu Cape’s unique topography and mix of ocean currents have also made its waters rich fishing grounds for over 300 years. Home to generations of fishing families, Yehliu still hums with a vibrant maritime culture. The cape shields its harbour from fierce monsoon winds, making it an ideal fishing port. From March to October, local fishers use traditional methods to catch cuttlefish, mackerel, and the prized Wanli crabs that now carry a brand of their own.

What is especially commendable is Yehliu Geopark’s steadfast commitment to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals. The way the park authorities have managed to strike a thoughtful balance between conserving this fragile landscape, while offering environmental education, promoting responsible tourism, and involving the local community is truly impressive.

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Yehliu Night Tours, launched in 2018, have become a signature event on Taiwan’s tourism calendar, offering rare after-hours access to the geopark. As dusk falls, the Queen’s Head and other prized formations are bathed in dramatic lighting and projections, transforming the coastline into a theatrical nightscape. These initiatives have brought additional livelihood to thousands in the surrounding villages and fishing harbour.

On the other hand, Taiwan’s north coast is also home to several native lily species, and Yehliu is doing its part to help them thrive. Visitors are invited to take part in the simple but meaningful act of scattering lily seeds across the park — together nurturing the vision of a landscape where rugged rockscapes and delicate blooms grow side by side.

Even as Yehliu buzzes with tourism and livelihood — from fishermen casting nets to visitors scattering lily seeds — the Queen’s Head stands quietly above it all, carved by millennia, weathered by time. Her slender neck may be slowly wearing away, but her reign continues to anchor not just the geopark’s fame, but the spirit of a community shaped by wind, sea, and stone. In Yehliu, nature tells its story in rock and salt, in crabs and legends — and the Queen’s Head, albeit with a fading crown, remains the keeper of Yehliu’s tale, the centrepiece of its charm.