Lip injections, snail mucins on face et al: A glimpse into Gen Z’s obsession with beauty

When I was growing up, makeup options were limited. Lakme was de rigueur and Maybelline was considered to be a novelty. Now, few care about them as they are spoiled for choice; there is a wide variety of brands and products for different preferences and price points. Back then, there was a phase when MAC became an obsession for a time. Manish Malhotra launched MyGlamm and Sabyasachi Mukherjee tied up with L’Oréal for lipsticks. Lotus came along with its affordable range, catering to a more price-conscious consumer base.

Today, Gen Z will do anything to cover dark circles, pigmentation and acne; they are driving the market to almost US $41.9 billion globally. The Indian makeup industry, valued at $8.1 billion in 2023, is expected to surge to $18.4 billion by 2032. Leading this boom is Nykaa, which earned Rs 13.64 crore in 2024. The landscape is rapidly expanding, with an increasing number of players entering the market. When celebrities enter the fray, they can boost sales up to 57 per cent.

Snail secretions and horse oil

I have seen girls aged between 18 and 25 as the biggest consumers of makeup. I asked a few where they got their eyeliners from — think neon, white, orange, and green. The quick reply was: In Rs 1,000, you get four shades from Elitty Beauty, started by Vailina Tulsani, Founder and CEO, with a focus on youngsters who like to make a statement. Price plays a huge role for Gen Z: “If I get four, each weekday is taken care of.”

Now let me tell you about the craziness that ensues when you’re dealing with girls who want to have an adventure. Kay Beauty has a kajal with a smudger, so you can use it like an eyeshadow (Rs 700). It’s a two-in-one product, which makes it popular. I was shocked to see the extent to which Korean beauty products are bought on a whim, mostly based on hearsay — “I’ve used it, you should try it.”

Snail mucin powder is known for its anti-aging, hydrating, and moisturising properties. The brand Cosrx sells it, and it can be bought from Clinikally for Rs 999. Here’s how it’s made: to collect the mucin, the snails walk over a mesh, the mucin is collected, snails are removed, and their secretions are processed into a filtrate that is added to the finished product.

Snail secretions are a mainstay of Korean beauty. Tira Beauty sells it for Rs 1,500 (100 ml). A user mentioned that it dried up her skin so badly it felt like sandpaper. The application process is that it stretches on your face like goo, then you can spread it. Snails produce secretions to help them move and stay moist; the secretions are what they leave behind, which apparently has huge medical properties. Someone told me about Loshi Horse Oil Moisture Skin Cream (Rs 2,697), which can be bought from Amazon. It’s made from horse fat and is said to repair damaged skin.

Fungi for anti-ageing, injections for lips

That’s not all. Now, fungi are being used for anti-ageing. Snow mushroom water serum, priced at $68, is not available in India, but Indian brands have versions, like Tira Beauty’s Mixsoon brand, which uses Reishi mushrooms (Rs 3,150). These mushrooms are known for their anti-inflammatory properties and are allegedly a staple in Chinese medicine. I wonder if this suits all skin types. After checking, I got to know that many people experience breakouts and rashes, as each skin type is unique. Before trying new products, many tell me they attempt a patch test, but whether it suits them or not, most trust blindly and simply follow trends.

One of the things many are willing to try to achieve plump, bee-stung lips is Too-Faced lip injections, which have become popular in our market. You apply it like a gloss, and it stings for a while, a 20-year-old tells me, but then she gets the lips she wants — big and full, à la Angelina Jolie. However, it comes at a hefty price — Rs 2,600 for 4 grams, available at Tira Beauty. “Big, juicy lips are considered beautiful,” she tells me, on condition of anonymity. “It’s the new makeup, it’s all you need.”

According to my survey, the age group most intrepid when it comes to beauty trends is between 20 to 27 years old. Every three months, they spend a minimum of Rs 10,000 to Rs 15,000 on beauty products. Acne and dark spots are their biggest concerns, largely due to long hours staring at small screens, which also give them “Panda eyes.” These luxurious products promise quick fixes. When they see their peers talking about them, it yields to fast sales. Essentials for them include mascara, lipstick, glow tints — products they can use every day.

The expanding universe of celebrity brands

Now let’s talk about celebrity makeup brands. Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez, with an annual revenue of $350 million in 2023, offers a tinted moisturiser instead of foundation. “You use this so it doesn’t clog your pores,” they say. And they are happily willing to spend Rs 3,500 for its lightweight texture, available at Sephora. Kylie Cosmetics’ lip liner pout is priced at Rs 2,000, while Fenty Beauty by Rihanna has a non-sticky lip oil for Rs 3,500.

Rhode, the makeup brand by Hailey Bieber, wife of pop star Justin Bieber (expected to hit $100 million in revenue this year), promotes it as: ‘all you need is a lip balm’. As phones are now our lifelines, she has even launched a phone cover that allows you to insert the lip balm (priced at Rs 1,200, depending on the size) in it.

According to a recent market research report by NielsenIQ, celebrity beauty brands have seen massive growth, with sales increasing by 57.8%, from $691.5 billion in 2022 to $1,091.1 billion in 2023. In India, research suggests that 57% of consumers are likely to buy products recommended by celebrities. As a result, we have Akind by Mira Kapoor, Hyphen by Kriti Sanon, Kay Beauty by Katrina Kaif, 82°E by Deepika Padukone, Anomaly by Priyanka Chopra, LoveChild by Masaba Gupta, Soezi by Sonakshi Sinha, Brown Skin Beauty by Anusha Dandekar, Star Struck by Sunny Leone, and Renee by Aashka Goradia.

Innovation is the name of the game. For example, Swiss Beauty’s tubing mascara, priced at Rs 456, wraps around lashes to lift them and is easy to remove with just warm water. Elf Cosmetics’ Halo Glow blush wands come with a sponge for smooth application. “It adds a glow to your cheeks for just Rs 1,150 — that’s all you need for college,” says a user.

pH-changing lipstick and face-lifting tapes

Many remarked that pH-changing products are the latest trend. Renee’s new cool pH-changing lipstick, for example, looks different on different lips. Priced at Rs 400, it is a black lipstick and, once applied, gives a unique hue. The LA Girl HD Pro Coverage Foundation, also based on pH, is white in colour and adapts to your skin tone for Rs 1,062. There’s also pH-changing lip gloss from Typsy Beauty for Rs 1,099, which promises to nourish your lips.

“pH plays a crucial role in the cosmetic and skincare industry, as it measures the acidity or alkalinity of a substance. Human skin has a slightly acidic pH level (approximately 5.5), which helps maintain our natural healthy skin barrier known as the acid mantle. Therefore, measuring the pH in cosmetics and selecting pH-balanced cosmetics and skincare products is essential for optimal skin health,” says a report by Atlas Scientific. The report further explains that in the cosmetic world, pH is essential for determining the safety and effectiveness of products. Lips have become a show stopper for Gen Z. The Sacheu peel-off lip stain, priced at Rs 1,600, acts as a tattoo lip liner. Once applied, it can be peeled off, promising no need for touch-ups.

For the crazy few, there’s also Razor Veda’s nipple-calming cream for Rs 799, which tightens and firms, offering elasticity. Additionally, there are 3-in-1 LED face masks priced at Rs 2,499, which claim to remove acne and pigmentation. Chanel’s Les Beiges Water-Fresh Complexion Touch, priced at Rs 6,550, features encapsulated particles. “When you rub, it becomes a foundation. I love it as it is light-weight. I like the way it is packaged; it is a bit gimmicky, but Gen Z loves it,” says one user.

Face-lifting tapes, available at Tira Beauty for Rs 1,050, can be applied to uplift wrinkles or sagging skin. Once makeup is applied, the tape becomes invisible. “I can’t get over the magnetic lashes — you stick them on, and get peppers like wings!” In conclusion, makeup has become an essential part of Gen Z’s lifestyle. With India’s population being so young — half of it is under the age of 25, and more than 65% under the age of 35 — marketers see a fertile ground for launching new products tailored to this demographic.

(All information is sourced from direct conversations with 25 young college-going students who preferred to stay anonymous. Product prices may vary from retailers).