Planning a trip to Kolkata during Durga Puja 2024? Here is your complete guide on which pandals to visit, what and where to eat, ‘bonedi barir’ pujas, and more
The banners are up. The pandals are being built on a war footing. The sun is gradually losing its summer-time glare, and the sweet scent of Durga Puja is in the Kolkata air. Despite the protests over the RG Kar hospital rape and murder, Kolkata is finally gearing up for its biggest festival of the year and shoppers are thronging the markets to buy the mandatory news clothes for Puja.
If you are planning a trip to Kolkata during Durga Puja, it is very easy to lose your way in the medley of pandals, crowds, traffic, lights, eateries, and cacophony of just about everything. So that you are not overwhelmed by the otherwise-laidback city that goes crazy during this time, here is a concise guide on what to do, where to eat, and the must-visit pandals to make the most of your Durga Puja trip.
Day 1, Shashthi (October 9): Pandal-hopping in north Kolkata
The primary attraction of Durga Puja is, of course, pandal-hopping. Some of the best creative talents of the state are on display at the theme pandals, with the lighting done by the illumination experts from Chandernagore in Hooghly district, the creative idols being mostly made in the potters’ hub in north Kolkata’s Kumartuli, and the artists travelling from all across Bengal to work on the décor.
Though Kolkata has hundreds of these “barowari” or community pujas, there are some that are traditionally known for their grandeur. The pandals look their best after dark, once they are all lit up, but evening-time pandal-hopping can also be a torture. Lakhs of people descend on the streets of Kolkata at that time and you are likely to spend hours standing in serpentine queues outside the popular pandals.
Therefore, opt for a daytime visit or night-long (after 10 pm) pandal-hopping, when the crowds are relatively thinner. If you choose daytime pandal-hopping, start early after breakfast. Begin in Dum Dum Park area, which has around five big pujas. There’s Dum Dum Park Sarbojonin, Tarun Dal, Tarun Sangha, Bharat Chakra, and Jubak Brinda, among others.
Also read: The best theme pandals in Kolkata to watch out for this Durga Puja
From there, come down to Sreebhumi Sporting Club at Lake Town in the north-eastern flanks of the city, which is known to grab eyeballs with its gorgeous and innovative pandals every year. This time, they are replicating the revered Shri Venketeswara Swami temple of Tirupati.
From there, come down to Ultadanga area and cover Telengabagan, Karbagan, Kabiraj Bagan, and Ultadanga Pallyshree pujas. Moving west, hop on to Kashi Bose Lane, Hatibagan Sarbojanin, and the Nalin Sarkar Street pujas, and from there further west to Ahiritola Sarbojanin, Kumartuli Park, and Bagbazar Sarbojanin. The last one is famed for its traditional sholar saaj idol.
Next, move slightly south-east to the famous Chaltabagan Lohapatty puja. If you have a sweet tooth, do not forget to stop at the nearby Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy, an iconic mishti shop in Kolkata. Next up, your destination will be the twin wonders of College Square and Md Ali Park, some 500 metres apart. College Square is famed for its illumination by Chandernagore craftsmen. The pandal this year will be a replica of the gorgeous Switzerland Parliament House.
Your last destination in the north will be Santosh Mitra Square in Bowbazar, which has already generated a lot if curiosity over its replication of the Sphere of Las Vegas this year!
By now, it should surely be time for (possibly late) lunch. There are many restaurants in this area. If you are looking for a Bengali lunch, Mahal Restaurant on College Street is a good choice. Or, you can come further south and eat at The Bhoj Company or Bhojohori Manna in BBD Bag area, Aadi Bangali Restaurant on Bentinck Street, or Kasturi on Marquis Street. All of these serve Bengali-cuisine food.
Day 2, Saptami (October 10): Visit Bonedi Barir Pujas
Durga Puja officially begins on this day. And mark this day for a visit to the traditional pujas at some heritage houses (bonedi bari) of Kolkata.
Like other years, the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd (WBTDCL) is offering a day trip to some select bonedi bari pujas, which usually ends with a gala meal of bhog prasad at Sovabazar Rajbari. The WBTDCL has these packages for October 10 and 11. Since the “Sanatani” packages sell like hot cakes, do try to book your seat(s) early.
Among the houses being covered this year are Rani Rashmonir Bari, Chhatubabu Latubabur Bari (only on Saptami), Khelat Ghosher Bari, Chandra Bari, Thanthania Dutta Bari, and Jorasanko Daw Bari, besides Sovabazar Rajbari. You can book a taxi and cover these yourself, but a WBTDCL trip would be more hassle-free. Some private travel agencies organise such tours as well.
Day 3, Ashtami/Nabami (October 11): Visit Pujas around Kolkata
Durga Puja is not restricted to Kolkata. While the capital city is known for its barowari or community pujas, for a true feel of the traditional household pujas, it’s best to go to the districts of Bengal. Many houses follow interesting rituals on Ashtami and Nabami. Ashtami is also the day when offering pushpanjali or a floral tribute to the Goddess is considered auspicious.
WBTDCL has its Hooghly Safar package on October 10 and 11, which will take you to seven traditional house pujas in Hooghly district. You can try a private tour, too, though the government one is more reliable. This one may be difficult to pull off on your own.
Day 4, Dashami (October 12): Pandal-hopping in south Kolkata
This year, unfortunately, Durga Puja has a truncated schedule. Since Ashtami and Nabami are on the same day, you will be left with one day less for your Puja trip. An option is to push your schedule a day ahead and start from Panchami on October 8 or even before that. WBTDCL is offering two days of whole-nights pre-Puja tours titled Udbodhani on October 6 and 7.
Or, you can do the pandal-hopping in south Kolkata on Vijaya Dashami and enjoy sights of sindur khela, in which married women smear each other and the Goddess with sindur (vermillion) as a mark of her departure. In the south, start with Suruchi Sangha in New Alipore and come eastwards to Chetla Agrani Club, followed by Badamtala Ashar Sangha and 66 Pally near Rashbehari Crossing.
Also read: Visiting Kolkata for Durga Puja 2024? Try these 10 traditional dishes of Bengal
Move further south to cover Mudiali Club and Shib Mandir and return to Rashbehari Avenue to cover Deshapriya Park, Tridhara Sammilani, Ballygunge Cultural, Samajsebi Sangha, Ekdalia Evergreen, Singhi Park, and Bosepukur Sitala Mandir as you keep moving east. Ekdalia is replicating the Puri Jagannath temple this year.
Time your pandal-hopping so that you are around Gariahat crossing (Ekdalia and Singhi Park are located there) during lunchtime. 6 Ballygunge Place, Bhojohori Manna, and Kasturi restaurants are close by. For a special desert of fusion sweets, stop at Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick near the crossing. Do try to eat the puja bhog prasad on at least one of the days. You can ask one of the community pujas and they usually arrange a plate for a price.
After lunch, turn further south again to visit Babubagan, Selimpur, and Jodhpur Park, and turn west to go all the way up to Naktala Udayan Sangha. The Masterda Surya Sen Metro station is close by and you can take the Metro to cover more pujas in Garia area if you still have energy.
You can also head for the Hooghly (Ganga) ghats in central Kolkata to catch the immersion of the idols in the evening.
Where to stay: You will find accommodation ranging from less than Rs 1000 to more than Rs 10,000 per night. Try to stay in central Kolkata — around Esplanade or Park Street — to minimize commuting time.
How to travel: Cabbies will willingly take you pandal-hopping for an entire day or night. Private tour operators will also arrange cars for your trip. However, the parking spaces are usually arranged a mile from the pandals. So, be prepared to walk and face massive traffic jams as well. Metro runs extra trains during Durga Puja and also operates extra hours. Buses and autos are also available.
