How the Maldives is much more than just a honeymooner’s paradise

I discovered some of its lesser-known facets when I set foot on its shores on my first international adventure. I was awe-struck by the ethereal beauty of the Baa Atoll — home to diverse marine life, including the beautiful manta rays, mammoth whale sharks, and numerous species of fish. The coral reefs, seagrass beds, sea cucumbers, and mangroves make it an ecological treasure trove. Located in the northern part of the Maldives, it was the first area in the country to be designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, in 2019. Resorts and guesthouses here are known for their commitment to eco-friendly initiatives such as reducing plastic waste, conserving water and energy, and educating visitors about the importance of marine conservation. One of the best practices they follow is filtering and storing rainwater — only to use it like drinking water.

As I dived into the crystal-clear waters, I found myself in the company of manta rays, their wings fluttering like silk. The experience was nothing short of enchanting; the gentle giants gracefully gliding through the azure waters imprinted itself in my memory. But the real magic happened when I had the opportunity to sit down with a local fisherman on a secluded island; he shared tales of generations of fishermen and their deep connection to the ocean. Each island in the Maldives has its own distinct personality and charm; island-hopping is a fantastic way to experience its diversity. You can explore local communities, interact with friendly locals, and discover hidden gems off the beaten path.

The arrival

As the domestic flight soared over the Maldivian islands, the in-flight view was breathtaking. The turquoise ocean and a limitless white expanse stretched out below me. However, the ride was unexpectedly choppy, with the small aircraft being tossed around by the tropical winds. Despite the turbulence, there was an undeniable undercurrent of excitement among passengers; we were about to touch down in one of the world’s most beautiful destinations. The moment I stepped off the plane onto the runway at Dharavandhoo Airport, I was greeted by a warm, tropical breeze. It felt like a whisper of the paradise that awaited. The airport itself was an introduction to the Maldivian way of life — unhurried, serene, small, silent and beautiful.

I had arrived in the Maldives with my suitcase filled with the essentials — swimwear, lots of sunscreen, a good book, some instant noodles, banana chips murukku (always in a South Indian’s bag of snacks) and an open heart ready for adventure. My choice of accommodation was not the typical overwater bungalow, but rather a charming guest house — Blue World in Dharavandhoo — that offered a unique and authentic experience. As I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome extended by Tito, the talking bird, whose amusing banter added a touch of whimsy to my stay. The staff (Maldivian and Indian) at the guest house were hospitable. It was a refreshing departure from the resort-style accommodations, providing me with an opportunity to connect with the local culture and create lasting memories.

Dive another day

My days in the Maldives followed a rhythm of pure relaxation. Sunbathing on the deck, snorkeling among colourful coral gardens, and swimming with whale sharks and manta rays became my daily rituals. The Maldives’ underwater world, with its vibrant marine life, was a world I had never known before. Ankita, Appi, Diana, Maadhin, Atti, and their team of skilled diving instructors taught me to take the plunge into the vast ocean. Their camaraderie and reassurance dissolved my initial hesitation, turning my apprehension into exhilaration.

As a seasoned swimmer, my initial trepidation about the vast and mysterious ocean waters might have seemed paradoxical. Yet, as I finally took that leap into its heart, I discovered an entirely new realm of awe and wonder. Surrounded by over 50 manta rays, nurse sharks, whale sharks, stingrays and turtles, I felt like a mere spectator in their enchanting world. My senses were overwhelmed by the beauty of colourful species of fish, including the striking lionfish, and the peculiar grace of sea cucumbers. Soon, my initial fear gave way to an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness the ocean’s magnificence up close and personal. I never believed until then when divers said, “Ocean water dives change lives”.

In a surreal and unexpected moment, while I was swimming among the manta rays, one of them decided to relieve itself, and I found myself at the receiving end, with the excrement landing right on my face. As if that wasn’t quirky enough, I also had an unintentional encounter with planktons that found their way into my swimsuit, creating a rather ticklish and unique sensation. For me, it was an unforgettable, one-of-a-kind oceanic experience. Evenings in the Maldives were magical. As the sun slipped below the horizon, the sky was painted in hues of orange. Nights brought clear skies filled with stars, and I spent hours gazing at the constellations, feeling humbled by the vastness of the universe.

A destination for seafood lovers

Being someone who isn’t typically a seafood enthusiast, my culinary adventure in the Maldives was a delightful surprise. I found myself savouring incredibly delicious meals, going beyond my usual preferences. One standout experience was at Taste Cafe, located right next to my guest house, Blue World, where I discovered their chili oil; initially, I intended to add it to my instant noodles for a taste of home. However, it turned out to be so irresistible that I found myself drizzling it on various dishes throughout my stay. Enjoying a refreshing iced Milo while the rain poured down was a simple pleasure I could not resist. Strolling to the local departmental stores every night for Magnum ice-creams was a sweet indulgence, adding an extra layer of joy to my Maldivian culinary journey.

The Maldives is a seafood lover’s paradise. With the Indian Ocean as its backyard, the country offers an abundance of fresh catches, including tuna, snapper, grouper, and mahi-mahi. These are often grilled, curried, or served raw in dishes like ‘Mas Huni,’ a traditional breakfast of shredded smoked tuna, mixed with coconut, onions, and chili, mostly served with ‘Roshi,’ a flatbread. Coconuts are a staple ingredient in Maldivian cuisine. Coconut milk and grated coconut are used in curries, soups, and desserts. Don’t miss ‘Garudhiya’, a clear fish soup flavoured with coconut, lime, and chilies, which is a favourite among locals, mostly served for dinners with rice. ‘Bis Keemiya,’ a deep-fried pastry filled with tuna, onions, and chili, is a popular snack along with fresh Sweet Lime juice.

The Maldives offers an array of savoury snacks, including ‘Hedhikaa’ like ‘Bajiyaa’ (deep-fried snacks filled with fish or vegetables) and ‘Kulhi Boakibaa’ (fish cake). I enjoyed these snacks with some fresh Lime water. For something stronger as a drink other than coconut water or Mogu Mogu, I tried ‘Raa,’ a traditional toddy tapped from palm trees and sometimes fermented for a more potent brew. How is a vacation complete without tasting desserts? ‘Bondibai,’ a sweet rice and coconut dessert, and ‘Foni Boakiba,’ a sweet and spicy cake, are just a couple of the delightful options.

As the day of departure approached, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of sadness. Leaving the Maldives was a bittersweet farewell to a paradise that had captured my heart. The Maldivian people, their warmth and hospitality, had made this trip even more special. My first international journey to the Maldives was a dream come true. It was a lesson in nature’s wonders, a testimony to the allure of exploration, and a reminder that the world is full of breathtaking places waiting to be discovered. The Maldives will forever hold a special place in my heart, for more reasons than one.